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“[quote=intpower;502]So many of my hatch dogs need to be replaced because the PLASTIC flange
are all cracked and broken allowing copious water to unnecessarily enter
the bilge. Also, they don’t look so great from an aesthetic perspective as
they make the boat look a little “”junky””. Hardly fitting an Intrepid…I’ve been all over various marine supply houses and websites to no avail.
This is for a 322 Cuddy from 1998.
Spoke with someone at Intrepid who suggested Perko.
So I gambled and ordered one Perko 07778F01CHR at $150 including shipping.
I need several but didn’t want to get a whole lot at once in case they didn’t work
out.Good thing I only got one because it is too small and doesn’t cover the hole/cutout
in the lid. This despite the fact that I ordered the largest round hatch dog they
make and not the more appropriately shaped rectangular model.So now I’m stuck with a $150 paperweight/doorstop and still my deck is still
full of holes. [:(]Surely there are older Intrepids out there with proper hatch dogs. Are they
all still using OEM plastic hatch dogs that are uncracked/unbroken? I doubt
that very much. I find it hard to believe mine are the only ones that have
cracked/broken and need replacement.Does anyone have any idea where to get these apparently extremely hard-to-find
replacement hatch dogs for older model Intrepids?Many thanks for any assistance you can provide. Hopefully this info might help out
some Intrepid owners as well.[/quote]
Hello,
My name is Paul Fleming I am the Warranty Service Manager here at the Intrepid Factory. I would like to see if I can help you with this issue. Could you send me some pictures of the current hatch dog you have on your boat as well as the hole that is cut into the hatch. This will tell me where we need to start looking for the proper replacement part and how to retrofit the hatch. My email address is warranty@intrepidpowerboats.com. Thank you and I look forward to hearing from you."“[quote=flswampdawg;500]I have a 2001 32 open center console and was wondering to use for a gasket material for the dive door ?
Thank You in Advance Joe R[/quote]
Hello Joe,
We use a 3M neoprene gasket for the dive door; there are two different types that we use. a 1/4"" flat gasket that seals the bottom edge where the hinges are and a D shaped gasket for the sides. We carry this gasket here at the factory. You can contact Walt Putman in Customer Service (727) 548-1260 ext. 242 - customercare@intrepidpowerboats.com or myself Paul Fleming Warranty Service Manager (727) 385-9335 - warranty@intrepidpowerboats.com. We will be happy to assist you in getting the replacement gasket you need. Thank you!Paul Fleming”
Hello and welcome to our forum! Depending on where you are located; we use a couple of different canvas companies such as Artful Canvas and Wycap Custom Covers to do most of our canvas work. A custom canvas company is going to be a little more expensive but the material will last much longer than a traditional “universal” cover you will purchase over the internet plus it is taylored for your boat. Please feel free to send me an email with the location of your boat and i would be glad to help find someone in your area that can suit your needs. Thank you again for visiting our forum! I look forward to further assisting you!
Paul J. Fleming
Warranty Service Manager
Intrepid Powerboats
warranty@intrepidpowerboats.comThe standard macerators we use are a blade discharging system; however we have installed the Whale diaphragm fish box macerator on one of our 375TE. They seem to like that pump and have made several positive comments about the product. Going this route would eliminate the need to install an additional thru hull for discharging; the pump would just be spliced into the existing hose. Here is a link to the Whale macerator website. I hope this information will help you make your decision a bit easier. Thank you again for using our forum.
Paul Fleming
Warranty Service Manager
warranty@intrepidpowerboats.com[quote=gtsr100rs;449]Hi I just purchased a ’91 23 Open and the macerator was missing from the forward fish box plumbing. The boatyard I used ran the hose from the foward fish box drain to the macerator/pump and the outlet of the macerator pump to the portside above waterline drain. I do not have a switch position for the macerator and they disconnected my lights to power the pump (nice huh?). I am trying to figure out how to fix that.
My live/baitwell drain goes to a below waterline thru-hull seacock. I only have one bilge pump so can’t help you there.[/quote]
Very odd they would have disconnected one item to hook up another. If there isn’t an addition open switch such as an accessory switch; we have an additional sub panel switch that you can purchase with a switch and breaker labeled macerator. This would solve the issue of either having lights or a macerator. You can contact Walt Putman with Intrepid Customer Care for pricing:
Walt Putman
(727) 548-1260 Ext. 242
customercare@intrepidpowerboats.comI hope this will solve your issue; thank you for using our forum. Please feel free to contact me with any additional questions.
Paul J. Fleming
Warranty Service Manager
warranty@intrepidpowerboats.com“[quote=PH4;448]We have a 1996 Intrepid that has the switches for a macerator, second bilge pump, and freshwater wash down but none of these was added/installed as an option when the boat was originally purchased from Intrepid. We now wish to install these options and would like to know how they would have been originally installed. Please see questions below. Your help is appreciated.
1) Would you please tell us if the macerator was originally installed inline with the below waterline hose from the fish box that drains through the below waterline thru-hull on the transom or do we need to run a new discharge hose from macerator to above waterline and install a new above waterline thru-hull similar to the one for the bilge pump.
2) where exactly was the optional second bilge pump placed in the bilge and the float switch for same. Do I need to T the hose from the second bilge into the hose from the first bilge or run a second and distinct hose installed into a new separate thru-hull. I am adding a second Rule 2000.
3) where exactly was the tank and pump for the optional freshwater wash down installed on the boat. Who built/supplied the tank and pump and what size was the tank and pump.
4) do you have a wiring diagram for the boat you would provide to us. It would help a great deal.
5) what hatch tape do you use for your hatches.
5) thank you for all of your help with this project. We are very appreciative of Intrepid’s willingness to help provide assistance and parts during the project. We love the boat and could not be more pleased with it and hope to acquire a 32 in the near future.[/quote]
Hello and thank you for using our forum; I look forward to assisting you thru your projects.
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The macerator that we use for our fish boxes does get installed inline with the drain hose below the waterline using a PVC Tee; however there is an additional discharge hose that will need to be added above the waterline. This gives you the ability to drain water manually when the boats is lifted out of the water by opening the seacock’ or by activating the macerator switch and discharging it overboard with the seacock closed.
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The second bilge pump would be installed in front of the currently installed pump at the same placement (this allows the pump to discharge as much water as possible). The float switch for the second bilge pump should be placed a few inches higher that the original float switch; this will make sure that both pumps are not competing with on another (when the bilge pump turns off there is so water that will flow backwards thru the hose, if the float switches are at the same height the possibility of the pumps cycling is high). You will need to add an additional thru hull for the second pump.
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If an optional water was installed during the build process it would have been placed under the deck. At this point to add a freshwater system you would have to measure one of the deck hatches in a storage locker and install a tank or bladder bag there. As for the pump I would recommend the Shurflo Aqua King II (5 GPM).
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Unfortunately we did put wiring diagrams in the hull file as we do now. However if the console switch panel has a switch for the freshwater or macerator there would have been a wire run into the bilge and “”dog boned”” for future use. Look around in the bilges on the bulkheads and on the underside of the deck to see if you see a bundle of wires secured (they should be labeled with the specific function of the wire).
I am going to send you a reply via your email with some pictures of an installed macerator and dual bilge pump installation. All of the parts necessary to complete these projects are items that we carry in our stockroom. Walt Putman is our Customer Care Associate that handles our part orders; his contact information is:
Walt Putman
(727) 548-1260 Ext. 242
customercare@intrepidpowerboats.comIf there is anything else I can help you with in the future please don’t hesitate to ask!
Paul J. Fleming
Warranty Service Manager
warranty@intrepidpowerboats.com”“[quote=fishngator;440]Hi,
Can anyone point me in the direction of a owners manual for a 1990 245 Center Console? In the midst of buying a nice restored one and need more info. Thanks in advance.
Chris[/quote]Good Morning Chris,
Thank you for your inquiry; that model pre-dates most of our owners manuals. However if you can email me the hull ID number. I will be more than happy to look up the file and get you as much information as I can on that particular boat. My email address is warranty@intrepidpowerboats.com.Thank you again for inquiring on our forum; I look forward to helping you with your new purchase.
Paul Fleming
Warranty Manager
Intrepid Powerboats”[quote=pdeveloper;432]Any ideas about how to clear up an older windshield that is kinda foggy and scratched?[/quote]
I am assuming this is a plexi-glass windshield if it is getting dull…. There is a product called Novis. They have a couple of different products that can help. You will need to apply the fine scratch remover (red label) first to get rid of small scratches and the fogginess; then the plastic clean and shine (blue label) for a final cleaning and polish to help keep away that fogginess. Here is some more information on the product
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